Nassau, Bahamas

This historic capital of the Bahamas lies only 54 NM south-southeast of the Great Harbour anchorage, but don’t lay the course immediately upon leaving the anchorage. Instead, you should make some easting first. Our chart “Approaches to The Abacos from the South” shows a course of 135°T until Hawk’s Nest bears 270°T. You can then proceed on to Nassau via the 150°T course as shown. In prevailing winds, the Berry Islands offer a lee shore and deserve a wide berth.

Nassau is busy, congested and far from relaxing, but it is great for reprovisioning, shopping, and sightseeing. It makes a good crew change port except for two significant disadvantages. The taxi ride to the airport is relatively long ($15) and the marina rates are slightly more expensive than what you will find in most of Abaco. The section on pirates in Chapter 1, may substantially increase your enjoyment of this historic city.

Approaches to Nassau Harbour

The approach to Nassau Harbour is as straightforward as you will find anywhere in the Bahamas. Paradise Island Lighthouse is visible for 13 NM and flashes red during a rage when the bar is particularly dangerous. In such conditions, the approach through Hanover Sound will sometimes be passable because of the protection afforded by Salt Cay. Other useful Nav-aids include the 251 kHz radio beacon at Nassau International Airport and the lighted range marking the entrance channel (151°T). The approach through Delaport Bay is now of limited usefulness to sailboats because of the 30 foot fixed bridge connecting Arawak Cay to Silver Cay.

Prior to entering, contact Nassau Harbour Control on VHF channel 16. You’ll have to renew this contact when you leave or anytime you relocate within the harbor. There is very limited anchoring room within the harbor, so plan to tie up at one of the many excellent marinas.

If you feel that you must anchor out, try to find a spot near the other boats anchored near the Club Med property, or just west of East Bay Marina. Particularly in the main channel, the current can be very swift. If you anchor near East Bay Marina, you risk a fouled anchor, since there are many old engine blocks and similar mooring paraphernalia on the bottom. Farther west, the holding ground is poor. South of Potters Cay and east of the bridge, you will find many local fishing smacks anchored, but a cruising yacht here would stick out like a “sore thumb.” If you do find a spot to anchor out, you will also need to find a suitable place to land your dink. For $2 a day, East Bay Marina will allow you to land your dink at their facility. BASRA has been generous enough to continue to allow visitors to use their dinghy dock at no charge, but for security reasons, this is recommended only during their normal business hours. A dinghy dock is also available for your use while patronizing Le Shack and Coconuts restaurants on East Bay Street.

Getting around the town is easy. Most of the things you will really need are within walking distance of the marinas. The public bus system works great if you’re going downtown (75 cents), it stops running at the end of the business day. If this is your first visit to the city, you may enjoy having one of the taxi drivers take you on a tour. Negotiate the prices in advance and don’t accept the first price you’re quoted. Motor scooters are readily available for rent and make a fun way to tour the island. Extreme caution is in order for those not familiar with them, since riding in congested left hand traffic can be challenging, at best, and certainly not the place to learn to ride a motor scooter.

Prices for groceries, fuel, and parts in Nassau are generally much more favorable than we’ve grown to expect in Abaco. The new government has taken major steps toward making import duties more reasonable, and while still not quite as economical as we find in the States, a cruiser in Abaco would have to think long and hard about going to Nassau to reprovision instead of crossing the stream.

Hurricane Hole Marina is a good choice if you want to walk to the casino or the beach. As the name implies, it offers the best protection on the island. Their prices reflect the choice location. The plush shops which line their docks appeal mostly to visitors who are looking for expensive souvenirs and fashions. Don’t plan to make too many trips across the Paradise Island Bridge. There is a new bridge, 200 yards west of the old one and with the same vertical clearance.

East Bay Marina, just west of the old bridge to Paradise Island, is another popular choice. It offers the best prices in town, but more importantly, puts you close to most of the shopping. The other marinas are a little less busy, offer prices slightly more expensive than East Bay Marina, but also require a little more walking to get to the heart of town. Nassau Harbour Club, although farther east than the other marinas, is operated in conjunction with a nice hotel, restaurant and lounge. Their pool is available to marina guests. Laundry facilities are available on the premises. This marina puts you directly across East Bay Street from the new shopping center with Barclay’s Bank and City Market (Winn-Dixie).

The new Atlantis Marina is a luxury yacht harbor, with slips available for $3/foot/night (40 foot minimum). Their claim to have the finest facility in the Bahamas is probably justified. They also claim to rival the legendary Marina of Monte Carlo on the European Riviera. The massive complex is built upon the theme of the legend of Atlantis and is a luxury hotel, marina, casino, entertainment complex, and shopping complex all rolled into one. Marina guests have access to all of the facilities, including spas, pools, golf, tennis, and more. The marina channel is located west of the new Paradise Island bridge, is 100 feet wide and carries 12 feet at MLW.

A thorough description of the many shopping, dining, and sightseeing activities in Nassau would be a book by itself, but a few deserve special mention. Two casinos, both government owned, are run by private operators. Merv Griffins’s Paradise Island Casino is a short walk from the north end of the Bridge on Paradise Island, while The Crystal Palace on West Bay Street is best reached by taxi. Coral World is a new aquarium and marine park located on Silver and Arawak Cays. The new bridge links the two cays. Here you can safely view sting rays, sharks, and less dangerous species.

History buffs will enjoy a visit to Fort Charlotte, which was built in the 1700’s to defend against the anticipated Spanish invasion, which never materialized. Others will enjoy visiting Parliament Square on Bay Street where both houses of Parliament as well as the Supreme Court convene. The Government House on Shirley Street is the official residence of the Governor-General, who is the Queen’s representative in the Bahamas. Visitors often enjoy watching the ceremonial “changing of the guard” here every other Saturday morning.

Restaurants

Restaurants abound, but one favorite is at the historic Graycliff Hotel. The menu is truly gourmet, mostly beef or lamb with rich French sauces. They had an extensive wine selection. Dinner for two with wine may run about $150. More to my liking are the “local” places such as Traveler’s Rest, The Sandpiper, and The Palm; all of which serve Bahamian fare and are more modestly priced. I quickly became a repeat customer at Scan’s Cafeteria, on Bay Street near the straw market. Although, their Bahamian food is good, their Greek gyros are special treats. Tony Romas, near the corner of Bay and Mackey, does an excellent job with their Baby Back Ribs. Kentucky Fried Chicken, and most of the pizza places, will deliver to the marinas. You won’t find that in Abaco!

For the members of your crew who like to shop, the opportunities abound. The straw market near Rawson Square offers a wide variety of straw products and T-shirts at favorable prices. Across the street, the shops have name brand clothes and perfumes sufficient to break any cruising budget. The book stores are well stocked as well.

Marine Supplies

On East Bay Street, I found Divers Haven to be a well stocked, full-service dive shop. I was particularly impressed to find a new dive mask, complete with the proper prescription lenses which I require, if I’m to dive for lobster. They also have a wide variety of dive trips available. Farther along East Bay Street, we found a good stock of marine supplies at Lightbourne Marine, Maura’s Marine, and Nautical Marine. We found a new glass bottom bucket at John S. George Hardware in the new shopping center. In the same shopping center, at the new City market, we were able to stock up with fresh vegetables, including romaine lettuce. Barclay’s also has a branch in the same center where you can get cash with your Visa or Mastercard.

When I needed some brass parts to replace the leaking plastic ones on my reverse osmosis system, I found just what I required at Standard Services on Shirley Street. Farther East on Shirley is the Shirley Street Branch Post Office. If you have your mail forwarded to Nassau, you may want to have it held for you here, but be sure to specify the Shirley Street Branch, or you may have to go downtown just to track down your mail. From experience, I recommend having your mail re-packaged in the U.S. and shipped to your marina using a parcel delivery service such as UPS or Federal Express, both provide very reliable service to the larger islands.

Nassau is as different from Abaco as you will find anywhere in the Bahamas. It is a busy crowded city. If you’re prepared for that, or if you need some of the services available here, you can certainly enjoy a few days in Nassau.

NASSAU TO THE CAYS OF NORTH ELEUTHERA

Once you have decided to make the stop in Nassau, you will most certainly want to continue on to the cays of North Eleuthera. Royal Island offers a well protected anchorage and offers quick and easy access to the ocean for your trip on to Abaco. Stops at Spanish Wells and Harbour Island will take you further out of your way and present more difficulty when it is time to regain the ocean for the continuation of your cruise. On the other hand, they are interesting and worthwhile destinations. I highly recommend them, if you have the extra time. Either way this particular leg of the trip is likely to be to windward and sailing auxiliaries will frequently find themselves motoring.

Leaving Nassau, you can go out the same way you came in, via the northwest entrance, or you can use the shorter but more complicated northeast entrance. The course from Paradise Island lighthouse to the Egg Island Light Tower at the approach to Spanish Wells is 046°T. The distance via this route is 34 NM, and is easily done in a daylight run. If you exit Nassau Harbour via the northeast entrance, you’ll save 4 NM, here are the directions:

1. Leave Nassau via the northeast entrance of the harbor. The Narrows between the eastern end of Paradise Island and the western end of Atholl Cay is marked by Narrows Light, and the passage looks tempting. However, the strong tidal current makes this pass unattractive on the flood. Circle Narrows Light from a point 0.25 NM south of it. When you’re properly lined up at this point, Narrows Light will bear 360°T, and Fort Montagu will bear 270°T. Favor the deep water near the south and southeast shores of Atholl Cay. When you’re north of the light, head north toward Salt Cay for about 0.75 NM, at which point you’ll be in the deep water of Hanover Sound, and can round the east end of Salt Cay toward Chub Rock Light. Clear the shallow sand bank along the south shore of Salt Cay by staying 0.25 NM off the south shore. Controlling depth for this passage is 8 feet at MLW, which is encountered in The Narrows. The use of this entrance is safer than the northwest entrance in strong north winds when either may become dangerous.

2. An alternate longer passage goes east of Atholl Cay. From the point 0.25 NM south of The Narrows Light, head 119°T for just over .6 NM. This will put you a little more than 0.5 NM south of the light on the south shore of Atholl Cay. Then follow 099°T for a little over 1.5 NM. This course leads over a dark grass bottom mixed in with some coral heads. Some coral heads in the vicinity have less than 6 feet over them. You can’t tell what depths are over the coral heads, but they all have white sand rings around them, and your bow lookout can steer you clear of them. Looking backwards, this 099°T course lines up on Montagu Point with the Potters Cay portion of the bridge to Paradise Island.

When the east end of Atholl Cay bears 355°T, make your turn to a course of 011°T. This will have you passing the east end of Atholl Cay about 110 yards off, and between the west end of Rose Island and the east end of Rose Island Rocks. At this point, you’ll have closed with a range of 018°T-198°T between Chub Rock Light and the east end of Atholl Cay. Get on this range and follow it for about 0.5 NM, then pass to the ocean west of Chub Rock.

3. Whichever of the two alternates above you choose, set your course 042°T for Egg Island Light, to be sure to clear Southwest Reef off the west shore of Eleuthera. The distance from Chub Rock Light to Egg Island Light is 30 NM.

4. The Egg Island Light tower stands on the highest point of Egg Island. The light is 112 feet high and is visible for 12 NM. Egg Island Light will not usually be seen in daylight until you’re within 5 NM. Little Egg Island to the south is very low. Use the pass between them, approaching on an 097°T course, staying midway between Little Egg Island and Great Egg Island. The controlling depth through this pass is 12 feet at MLW. It’s also possible to come in south of Little Egg Island, between it and the prominent grounded freighter to the south.

The wrecked freighter south of Little Egg Island is quite prominent, rusting away in 20 feet on the sandy bottom. She was 250 feet, of Lebanese registry, and was deliberately run aground there in 1971 after catching fire. Her propeller is gone, and her keel is broken amidships, but the nearby bottom is littered with gear discarded when she was abandoned. All kinds of fish are attracted to the wreck.

If you are following the Columbus landfall controversy, which I introduced in Chapter 1, you may recall that many scholars believe that New Providence fits Columbus' original description of Santa Maria de la Concepcion. Remember that he would have been running this course from Egg Island to New Providence. In his log, he, "saw so many islands" to port and steered for the largest of these (New Providence). He described the east coast of Santa Maria de la Concepcion (possibly New Providence) as running "north and south for a distance of five leagues, and the other side, which I followed, runs east and west for more than ten leagues." A "league" is about three statute miles, although minor variation in definition exist and provide subject matter for the ongoing debate. Even a superficial review of the islands of the Bahamas and Caribbean reveals that few other islands fit these dimensions.